Lock change and replacement

Repair and replacement are different scopes. A lockset that binds, sags, or turns roughly is often a loose mounting screw, a misaligned strike plate, a worn spring cassette, or a latch that has dropped out of square with the frame. Those can be repairs when the body and cylinder are sound. Replacement is the usual path when the housing is cracked, the finish has pitted through, or the hardware is not worth the labor. The independent professional should inspect before choosing.

Rekey if the lock still works smoothly and looks fine. Replace if it's binding, the knob wiggles, the finish is pitted, or it's builder-grade hardware you want to upgrade. The professional should inspect the opening before recommending either option.

ANSI/BHMA grades rate residential locks on durability and attack resistance. Grade 1 is the highest common residential and light-commercial rating. Grade 2 is solid residential. Grade 3 is builder-grade, often fine for interior doors and a weaker choice for an exterior door. Compare the exact certified product and intended use rather than relying on a broad label.

Possibly. Provide the exact model and door measurements, including thickness, backset, bore preparation, handing when relevant, and photos of the edge and strike.

Egress and fire-safety requirements depend on the opening and occupancy. Do not choose double-cylinder hardware from a distance rule alone. Confirm applicable code and safe-exit requirements.

Service life depends on the certified product, usage, environment, installation, alignment, maintenance, and damage. Binding, looseness, or unreliable operation deserves assessment regardless of age.